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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.